A Week in the Life

Although I am staying very present in the moment and soaking up my time here in India fully, I cannot believe that I am already in the midst of my third week here! This past week was filled with new knowledge, endless laughs, wonderful company and memorable experiences. While in Delhi I have been on a constant endorphin high; very happy and overstimulated. I am feeling much more comfortable than when I initially arrived and feel a small sense of pride in myself and my peers on how smoothly we have navigated and negotiated our surroundings. Here is a little glimpse into what this past week was like for me:

Tuesday, Feb 14

DIY Day! Do It Yourself. My classmates and I had the day off from class to wander and explore. A few girls and I decided on spending the day at Suraj Cun Mela; a crafts fair on the outskirts of the city. Over 300 vendors from all over India come to this annual fair to sell beautiful Indian goods. The fair was similar to many things I have seen here in Delhi; it was colorful, extremely dense with people, loud and overwhelming. I haggled for a few treats here; a scarf, bracelet, ring and skirt! While In Suraj Cun, it was very interesting to note how many people asked (or didn’t ask) to take pictures of me and my girlfriends while we walked through the fair. We were constantly being snapped, I was confused by this and it felt rather invasive. Was it because we looked different? White? Female? Dressed differently than the Indian women around us? These questions continue to swarm in my head as this has been a reoccurring situation for us in Delhi.

After a full day of exploration in Suraj Cun, Sam and I came home to yet another lovely meal and conversation with Auntie and our homestay sister, Annie. We discuss a variety of topics during dinner but a continuous theme is how similar our lives are in relation to Auntie and her family. “We’re the same, you and me,” Auntie says across the kitchen table. Prior to this abroad experience, I completely “otherized” India and felt as though the people here were entirely different and exotic compared to me. What I have uncovered is that culturally there can be many differences, but at the end of the day, we are all truly very similar- we all strive to provide for ourselves and families, create a happy home, stay healthy and gain new knowledge. This revelation really struck me, I almost felt silly for thinking the way I did previously. Whether you are from India, Senegal, Argentina or America, we’re all people, it’s really that simple.

P.S. Happy Valentine’s Day!

Wednesday, Feb 15

Class all day! Wednesday we had our Culture and Society course as well as Politics and Development (and our daily tea and lunch break!) In class, we discussed the theme of citizenship and who in a city feels a sense of belonging or membership. Do all people have the right to the city? Does the city exploit some in the hopes of becoming a serious player on the global scale? Do given cities have one definition of citizenship?  These and other questions filled our class discussion as we bounced ideas off each other and stimulated our minds with new concepts.

After class, a group of us headed to a rooftop hookah bar nearby to sit in the warm sun and get to know one another better. We have only known each other for about a month now, but already we have become extremely close; we've shared inside jokes, deep talks and everything else in between.  IHP’s learning community is more like a family, and I feel so fortunate to be a part of it.

Thursday, Feb 16

Market Day! On Thursday, our class broke out into several groups to explore different types of markets in the city and get a sense of the economic activity in Delhi. We observed the differences between informal and formal activity, the use of private and public space as well as how individual workers are socially enabled to go to work. In Gole Market, I interviewed a number of businesses owners (predominately men) who told me that they were able to come to work because their wives were “housewives,” taking care of the children at home. There is major gender inequality here in Delhi and I have been so struck by this numerous times. Women simply do not receive the same opportunities as men and there is an expectation for them to be kept covered by both staying inside the home and wearing conservative clothing. The Delhi metro even has a car exclusively for women because of complaints of feeling unsafe and harassed. We have debated in class whether this is a solution to the problem or whether it is feeding the issue further by isolating women to a separate section. 

After our excursion through the market, a few girls and I went to a café in my neighborhood for coffee and conversation. On our way out of the café heading home for dinner, the bright lights of an orange and red tent across the street caught my eye. A smile began to pour out of my mouth as I motioned to girls to follow me towards the tent. A tent like that is a sign of an Indian wedding, a dream of mine has always been to attend one, so without hesitation I peeped my head through the draped doors. The wedding had not started yet but the food was set on the buffet tables, a Bollywood music band was setting up their instruments and henna artist were unpacking their station. It was beautiful! The colors, lights, fabrics—I was blown away. What was even more breathtaking was how kind and generous the groom and his family were! They invited us in for drinks, henna and dancing before the guests arrived! Indian hospitality brings generosity to a new level; I have seen it here through the warmth of this particularly family, Auntie and the Singh’s.

Although we could not stay for the wedding because we had to get home to our host families for dinner, my friends and I had the best time at the “pre-party.” Uncontrollable smiles beamed from all our faces. It was a spontaneous and exciting adventure, a great memory for the books.

Henna at the wedding!

Aly and I

Groom's family and friends!

Friday, Feb 17

Class again! We gave presentations on our Market Day excursions through a mapping exercise.  Julia and Cebe joined me, Sam, Annie and Auntie for dinner!

Saturday and Sunday, Feb 18 and 19

A weekend in Chandigarh! On Saturday, five friends and I traded in the busy city of Delhi for the planned, peaceful city of Chandigarh, just 3.5 hours north by train. Thanks to our dear friend Manu, we were invited to stay at his guest house and were given a very special opportunity to explore and compare this city in relation to Delhi. We did everything from boating on the lake, to visiting the famous rock and rose gardens, to camel riding, to museum visits, to nightlife excursions! It was a truly exceptional weekend filled with endless laughter and memorable moments. Although Chandigarh itself is a green, planned, tranquil place with rich history, one thing I learned this weekend that no museum visit could have taught me is that it’s not necessarily about where you’re going but who you’re with that really matters.

"If you think about it, your favorite memories, the most important moments in your life... were you alone? Life's better with company." - Up in the Air

A few pictures from the weekend below!

Lunch when we arrived

Swan Boats!

Camel Ride

Group at the Rock Garden

Rock Garden

Rock Garden

Dinner...yum!

Rose Garden

Max, Julia, Me, Sam, Cebe

Namaste.

Lots of Love,

Rachel

Keep on Dancing

My first week in Delhi has flown by like a zooming rickshaw, yet the days have been so full with new experiences and unforgettable moments. Our schedule has been enjoyably intense, so having a rather slow-pace weekend to explore India independently was lovely…and so much fun!

After catching up on a few hours of much needed sleep, a couple of friends and I headed to a famous market called “Dilli Haat" on Saturday. The fair was filled with tent vendors selling all types of typical Indian knick-knacks; colorful scarves, thousands of skinny bangles, handmade purses and everything else in between. The marketplace was bright, beautiful and full of life. That evening we found ourselves exploring a neighborhood busy with young people. We stumbled upon a glamorous roof-top restaurant amongst ancient ruins and opted for some delicious brick oven pizza (no judgment, Indian food is heavy after a while!)

Sunday afternoon I had the extraordinary pleasure of being invited for lunch at the Singh’s, dear family friends of the Glick’s. The story goes that while Manu (Mr. Singh) came to study at Boston University roughly forty years ago, my great grandmother, Edith, cared for Manu like he was one of her own. Whether it was a Jewish holiday, laundry or if Manu was sick with a cold, Nana Edith always extended her home to him. She was Manu’s Boston “Auntie,” she loved him very much. Edith thought she was just helping a “poor Indian boy,” little did she know that he would grow up to be the Chairman of Max India, and one of the most successful business men out there. Manu’s kind and genuine heart combined with his deep gratitude for Auntie Edith’s generosity resulted in our families remaining very close ever since. In fact, he is making arrangements to be in Boston for Edith’s 100^th birthday this April!

Now that the roles have reversed and it is a Glick who’s the college student in a new and unfamiliar setting, Manu has played the role of my “Uncle” while I have been here; so selflessly sweet and loving. It was such a treat spending time with him and his family this weekend, they are such a rare breed of warm and bring a whole new meaning to hospitality. Manu is the type of person who truly hugs you with his eyes; he and his children are so graciously kind. My friends and I had a great time and wonderful conversation with Manu and his family about life, destiny, urban planning and Delhi belly, just to name a few topics. We felt so welcomed and relaxed; it was a perfect day. I cannot mention Manu without giving a sentence on how extraordinarily beautiful and modestly luxurious his home is. From a student perspective, it was incredible to witness the stark contrast between the concentrated wealth of India as well as the wide-spread poverty I have only studied about in textbooks.

Speaking of wide-spread poverty…This afternoon my classmates and I visited the Federation of Street and Working Children, an NGO in Delhi known as CHETNA. The mission of the organization is to offer children who are working on the streets better opportunities and an enhanced quality of life through education, health and theatre programs. CHETNA strives to protect the rights of underprivileged children and make their lives mean more than just mere survival. Our class met many young teens who take part in this program, but one boy named Vigar struck a chord with me. He told us about his troubled past living in an abusive home. He ran away to the train tracks at eleven years of age, and met a group of fellow young boys who made a living by picking up plastic bottles left by passengers to sell to recycling businesses. He made sixty rupees a day doing this, but spent fifty to feed his substance abuse addiction. Vigar was ultimately rescued from this fatal lifestyle by the people of CHETNA and since then his way of life has completely changed. At seventeen, Vigar is happy, healthy, and receiving a proper education. He has also found a new passion through the theatre program; dance. I was nearly brought to tears watching Vigar perform for us, his white smile beamed so bright against his dark hazelnut skin as he moved his limbs like it was second nature. Today, I witnessed such a pure form of joy; a young boy dancing beyond his troubled past into a promising future. Vigar taught me that even when life can be dark, scary and seemingly worthless; you have to keep on dancing.

"Turn your face toward the sun and the shadows will fall behind you." -Maori Proverb

A few pictures from my weekend are posted below!

Namaste.

Lots of Love,

Rachel

A few of us out to dinner!

Roof Top Restaurant: Amour

Friends plus Tara

Me and Veer

Neera, Veer and Friends!

Pillars Do Not Make Cities, People Do

I have never been stared at so much and I have never wanted to stare at so much.

Throughout my journey, I have found that it is the people of the Delhi that have attracted my eye and captured my heart. Today, I visited a neighborhood known as Sewa Nugar. They say a picture speaks a thousand words, so for this post I would like to communicate my exploration of Sewa Nugar through photographs of the lovely people I met there. 

I hope you enjoy! I will write again soon.

Namaste.

Lots of Love,

Rachel

Auntie!

Me and Auntie

Auntie on her Wedding Day

Arranged Marriage 

Namaste from Delhi!

Where to begin… After an easy 14 hour flight (thank you Tylenol PM) I have arrived in Delhi, India. Sensory overload; this is the simplest way to sum up my first few days here. From listening to the constant honking of the impatient “auto” (rickshaw) drivers, to smelling the delectable scents of spices in our home-stay kitchen, to watching beggars plead for just a coin on the streets—it has been intense, stirring, and anxiety-provoking, yet manageable, eye-opening and truly awesome.

They say home is where the heart is, and I can already tell that a piece of my heart will remain here at my home-stay in Delhi. Samantha (a friend and fellow IHP student) and I are staying with a widowed, older woman named Nalini, or as we call her, Auntie. She is so warm, kind and loving and has created a happy and less lonely home for herself (since her husband passed) by hosting and caring for international students. The wrinkles that cup her cheeks indicate a long life of smiles, joy and fulfillment. Her golden-brown eyes gleam behind her rectangular glasses as we discuss a plethora of topics such as family, perception, literature, life and of course, food. Auntie has made us feel extremely welcome in her beautiful home. I feel so safe and comfortable here, which is such a blessing compared to the life that millions of other Indians experience just outside these walls.

IHP’s methodology of learning is that the classroom and the city are co-joined. With this experiential learning model in mind, our class separated into different groups to explore the streets right away. Yesterday, I visited a neighborhood known as Nizamuddin, which is essentially a medieval Muslim ghetto. This area is extremely holy and sacred to its residents because of the many tombs and shrines still preserved from over seven hundred years ago. The narrow ally-ways dividing the mosques, tombs and apartments are crowded with beggars, vendors, goats, chickens, trash and children. This was not the Delhi of colors and flowers and henna artists I had imagined, but it was the Delhi of density, poverty and community. This “type” of Delhi is authentic and very prevalent. The exposure to Nizamuddin was valuable in that it provided me with a profound understanding of the different castes here in Delhi. It allowed me to learn with a deeper capacity rather than just skimming the surface and turning the other cheek.

While in the neighborhood, my classmates and I were invited by our guides to enter a Muslim shrine. The women had to cover their heads and walk barefoot into the temple. I was initially hesitant about this. Do I really want to walk barefoot here? What if my shoes get stolen? Will I be judged for being an outsider? Questions like these buzzed through my head. Suddenly, as if a light bulb went off in my head, I realized that this was an example of my whole reason for being on this foreign journey; I am here to experience how others live, to immerse myself, to say yes. I quickly slid off my sandals, covered my head with my scarf, and entered the shrine. I sat cross-legged on an embroidered maroon carpet, looking wide-eyed at the people around me. The women were sectioned off into a separate space, many praying and bowing to the sound of a beautiful Muslim song. I closed my eyes, placed my hands together at heart-center, and for a few brief seconds, I had the most open and spiritual experience. I was not practicing Islam or reciting any particular prayer; I was simply feeling the moment and living it fully with an open heart. It was thrilling yet peaceful, unfamiliar but not intimidating, above all, I am extremely happy I said yes.

I am looking forward to so many more moments such as this during my time here in Delhi. Through exposure to different neighborhoods, dinner conversation with Auntie, walking and observing the streets, discussion with classmates, faculty and local people I hope to build understanding and broaden my worldview. As one of my favorite quotes reads, “The world is a book and those who do not travel read only one page” – St. Augustine. I feel I am doing just this, reading the world, city by city.

A few pictures of my journey into Nizamuddin are below!

Namaste.

Lots of Love,

Rachel

Packed into an Auto!

Children of Nizamuddin (1)

Children of Nizamuddin (2)

Market Vendor

Children of Nizamuddin (3)

Market Place

Resident of Nizamuddin

Shops near entrance of the Shrine

Ready

These two weeks in New York City have been absolutely extraordinary. I never imagined how much I could learn about the communities of the city, the built environment and complete strangers in such a short period of time. Above all, I am beginning to learn more about myself. I haven’t quite processed all that I have seen, done, tasted and heard, and therefore it can be quite a challenge to communicate and synthesize my thoughts and reflections in a blog post. There are, however, a few themes or key concepts I have discovered from my time here which I would like to share with you.

Identity

Identity has played a key role in the IHP program. Through neighborhood visits and discussion with my peers, I have discovered that there are many complex layers to how one identifies herself. We have applied the concept of identity to both communities we have observed in the city, and within our learning community of IHP. During class on Wednesday, we were asked to write about how we, as individuals, identify ourselves. Many of my friends had difficulty with this exercise, but my first reaction to the word “identity” came with no hesitation; family- I am the daughter of Holly and Larry and the sister to Amanda and Sara. This is how I identify myself first and foremost, and I feel so very fortunate, blessed and proud that my family shapes such a large part of who I am.

Becoming Comfortable with the Unknown

Stepping into the unfamiliar can be a very nerve-racking experience. Even while in New York City, a place I consider to feel very comfortable in, I have felt extremely uncomfortable when walking through new neighborhoods. For example, yesterday I visited East Flatbush, Brooklyn with a group of students. We traveled to our destination underground, unaware of what filled the streets above us. When we got off the subway and entered the neighborhood, I was overwhelmed with thoughts and feelings. We instantly stuck out like many sore thumbs; we were the only white people in the overcrowded neighborhood. I felt myself clutching onto my purse but remember feeling deeply guilty about it at the same time. I felt like I needed to look all around me, but also keep my eyes straight ahead. My heart and head were filled with paradoxes. Everything I sensed while in this Haitian community was so very new; I had never felt like a minority in this way before. After we exited the corner near the subway entrance, I soon realized that I was looking, but not seeing. I needed to regroup, let go of judgments and go deeper than the surface. During my time in the neighborhood, I searched to find a relaxed awareness; a cautious mind, but also an open mind.

There’s always the moon

After our exhilarating day through Brooklyn, my friends and I ended in Prospect Park right as the sun was going down and the moon was coming up. We sat on a bench and looked up at the orange-gray sky. The silhouette of the trees was like a painting, I felt so at peace sitting on that bench after the intensity of the day. I looked high above and saw the beaming moon and all of the sudden realized; there’s always the moon. Even though I was just in Brooklyn, I was exposed to an entirely new way of life, I felt as though I was in a completely different world. The language, the food, the people, the retail, the sidewalks- it was all new. But when I looked up, I saw the very same moon, the moon I see every night, the moon that all people see, all around the world. It may sound very cheesy, but I felt such a sense of safety and comfort knowing that the moon was always there for me, especially in times of great change and in new and unfamiliar settings. That constant light of comfort will be there for me in Delhi, Dakar and Buenos Aires.  When you look up at the sky Saturday night, know that I will be looking at the same moon in India.

After spending two weeks in New York, with wonderful people and taking part in an incredibly well-done program, I am feeling much more prepared for my travels than I did when I walked through the doors of the International House twelve days ago. I am ready to take in these dynamic and diverse cities in all ways possible. I am ready to see how people operate in their day-to-day lives so very differently than I do. I am ready to taste each city. I am ready to take photographs. I am ready to talk to strangers. I am ready to fly 14 hours. I am ready to speak up. I am ready to shop. I am ready to wander. I am ready to dance. I am ready to be moved. I am ready to cry. I am ready to be inspired. I am ready to live fully with a passionate heart and open mind. I am ready.

Talk to you from India! Enjoy the pictures below. 

Lots of love,

Rachel

Brownstones In Harlem

Incense: Street Vendor in Harlem

Family Dinner at Sam's!

The Chefs (Lindsey, Cebe, Sam)

My Roommate! Julia and Me

East Flatbush, Brooklyn

Mural in East Flatbush

There's Always the Moon. Prospect Park, Brooklyn