Where to begin… After an easy 14 hour flight (thank you Tylenol PM) I have arrived in Delhi, India. Sensory overload; this is the simplest way to sum up my first few days here. From listening to the constant honking of the impatient “auto” (rickshaw) drivers, to smelling the delectable scents of spices in our home-stay kitchen, to watching beggars plead for just a coin on the streets—it has been intense, stirring, and anxiety-provoking, yet manageable, eye-opening and truly awesome.
They say home is where the heart is, and I can already tell that a piece of my heart will remain here at my home-stay in Delhi. Samantha (a friend and fellow IHP student) and I are staying with a widowed, older woman named Nalini, or as we call her, Auntie. She is so warm, kind and loving and has created a happy and less lonely home for herself (since her husband passed) by hosting and caring for international students. The wrinkles that cup her cheeks indicate a long life of smiles, joy and fulfillment. Her golden-brown eyes gleam behind her rectangular glasses as we discuss a plethora of topics such as family, perception, literature, life and of course, food. Auntie has made us feel extremely welcome in her beautiful home. I feel so safe and comfortable here, which is such a blessing compared to the life that millions of other Indians experience just outside these walls.
IHP’s methodology of learning is that the classroom and the city are co-joined. With this experiential learning model in mind, our class separated into different groups to explore the streets right away. Yesterday, I visited a neighborhood known as Nizamuddin, which is essentially a medieval Muslim ghetto. This area is extremely holy and sacred to its residents because of the many tombs and shrines still preserved from over seven hundred years ago. The narrow ally-ways dividing the mosques, tombs and apartments are crowded with beggars, vendors, goats, chickens, trash and children. This was not the Delhi of colors and flowers and henna artists I had imagined, but it was the Delhi of density, poverty and community. This “type” of Delhi is authentic and very prevalent. The exposure to Nizamuddin was valuable in that it provided me with a profound understanding of the different castes here in Delhi. It allowed me to learn with a deeper capacity rather than just skimming the surface and turning the other cheek.
While in the neighborhood, my classmates and I were invited by our guides to enter a Muslim shrine. The women had to cover their heads and walk barefoot into the temple. I was initially hesitant about this. Do I really want to walk barefoot here? What if my shoes get stolen? Will I be judged for being an outsider? Questions like these buzzed through my head. Suddenly, as if a light bulb went off in my head, I realized that this was an example of my whole reason for being on this foreign journey; I am here to experience how others live, to immerse myself, to say yes. I quickly slid off my sandals, covered my head with my scarf, and entered the shrine. I sat cross-legged on an embroidered maroon carpet, looking wide-eyed at the people around me. The women were sectioned off into a separate space, many praying and bowing to the sound of a beautiful Muslim song. I closed my eyes, placed my hands together at heart-center, and for a few brief seconds, I had the most open and spiritual experience. I was not practicing Islam or reciting any particular prayer; I was simply feeling the moment and living it fully with an open heart. It was thrilling yet peaceful, unfamiliar but not intimidating, above all, I am extremely happy I said yes.
I am looking forward to so many more moments such as this during my time here in Delhi. Through exposure to different neighborhoods, dinner conversation with Auntie, walking and observing the streets, discussion with classmates, faculty and local people I hope to build understanding and broaden my worldview. As one of my favorite quotes reads, “The world is a book and those who do not travel read only one page” – St. Augustine. I feel I am doing just this, reading the world, city by city.
A few pictures of my journey into Nizamuddin are below!
Namaste.
Lots of Love,
Rachel
Packed into an Auto!
Children of Nizamuddin (1)
Children of Nizamuddin (2)
Market Vendor
Children of Nizamuddin (3)
Market Place
Resident of Nizamuddin
Shops near entrance of the Shrine








And we get to "read the world" along with you - thank you for sharing your pages. Xoxomom
ReplyDeleteGreat stuff, Rachel! I really enjoyed reading and look forward to keep on reading. Its great to see perspectives and experiences from someone who is, how you say venturing into the unknown, in a place that I have grown so comfortable with. Delhi is definitely a great place to start. Let me know if you need any advice! Keep saying yes to everything, besides eating street food!
ReplyDeleteAlso, great pics you have a good eye.
Wow Rach, your photos are fantastic! I am struck by the abundance of color even in the midst of poverty. I admire your courage and openness. You go girl! xo Ca
ReplyDeleteRach, so moved by your beautiful words...can't wait to follow you on your journey from Boston! xox
ReplyDeleteRachel! This program sounds insanely wonderful. Can't wait to read more, enjoy the ride chica!
ReplyDeleteBEAUTIFUL words and pictures!!! Thinking of you every day, road runner. Keep it up! Sun is shining here for you. Xxbig
ReplyDelete